Simply Surfin’ Part 2

At 2 ‘o clock I left work and headed for home to pick up my bags, cameras, computer and sketch book. I had about 3 hours before take off so I had no time to spare. I did however make a stop at Val Surf and bought a 1mm lycra short sleeve rash guard. I also looked around and soaked in the surfing spirit. I looked at the boards and the wetsuits and I realized…I was in a store that was complete hype. More shirts and shorts and hats and stuff no one needs. But it was the best I could do at the moment.
After a short while and a quick stop at home I was on my way to LAX. I got there quickly and parked my car at the Marriot parking lot. I took the shuttle over to the airport and got let out at United. Mentally I was already gone. But my body went thru the motions of check in. As I went thru the security line I was stopped. Sir please move to the side. OK. “What’s wrong?” In a very serious tone the security officer said, “You cannot take this hair gel on the plane. It is over 4 ounces.” Really?” “Yes…unless you check it in.” “Check in a tube of hair gel?” With your bag sir. Oh….no no you keep it. I’ll go naturale!”
So I headed off for the gate. Who needs hair gel anyways I thought. It’s so metrosexual…I’m going surfing not dancing at some night club.
I made my way through the terminal and right over to gate 75 where my plane was loading. “Fantastic, I thought, no waiting. Get on the plane and take off! I move quickly through the boarding gate and on to the plane. My seat was right over the wing, the bulkhead, the perfect spot. Easy access to exit and the strongest part of the plane. Isn’t it funny how that makes you feel safe. I mean the bulkhead’s not saving you if you are traveling 600 mph straight into a mountain. But I felt good nonetheless.
Next to me was a kid from Michigan who was going to Kauai for the first time. He was very clean cut looking. A brush cut hair style in slacks, nice shirt button down shirt and a tie! “My name’s Robert.” “Lon” It’s my first time going to Kauai, how ‘bout you? “I been there a few times. It’s great. You gonna surf there?” “Yeah, my buddies are meeting me there and we’re staying together in a condo near the beach. “Sounds great. “What about you? Me? I’m writing and illustrating a book on surfing. This is research…kind of.” “Nice.” Yeah it is. “This is my last trip before I go back to school. I’m at the Univertsity of Michigan. “That’s impressive.” “Not really. I’m graduating this year and I think I’m gonna go to business school.” “OK advice here…that’s a good idea…I wish I’d have done that…I might be flying first class right now!” Hey you’re a writer and an artist. That’s dope.” I thought for a second. He’s right.”Yeah it is.” We chatted a little while longer until the captain came on and said we about to take off.
I settled in for a 5 and half hour flight. By 7 Hawaiian time I’d be in Kauai.
The next 5 hours went by pretty quickly. I watched a few episodes of Larry David on my laptop and then wrote a little. Then for the last hour or so I closed my eyes and tried to envision myself surfing. I figured if I planted positive thoughts and images in my head I might not embarrass myself in the water. After a while my thoughts were interrupted by the pilot telling us we were flying over the islands. I looked out the window and saw nothing but clouds and darkness. The sky looked ominous. “What if it rains the whole time I’m here?…that would be a drag.” AS we came closer to Kauai the clouds and the darkness was more pronounced. It looked more like the lost island where King kong lived than the garden island I remembered. Within minutes we were on the ground. I exited the plane and walked into the terminal. It was larger than I had thought. I headed for the baggage area and the exit. All my cares and worries started to fade. I’m am actually here! I took in the air. I noticed the faint smell of sugar refineries. Kinda like burnt molasses. I headed for the pickup zone and sat down in front. I called Alan on the cellie. “Hey hey…Welcome to the islands bra!” was the first thing I heard. “Yeah, thanks, where are you?” I’m very close just hang in there enjoy the breeze.” I sat back against a cement post and waited. Thinking about how many times I’ve been to Kauai. Was it 3 or 4 times? I don’t recall. I knew I had come there for my honeymoon and I knew I came with Alan during our heyday in the 70’s, and somewhere in between there was another time. Oh well old age…what can you do?
Minutes later Alan showed up in a cinnamon colored Chevy cruiser with boards strapped on top. “Check it out…our surf buggy.” Suddenly I transported back to a time when that look meant something to me, it was our identity and we wore that look like a badge of honor. I felt like a surfer, but could I stand up? Would I be able to live up to this look and feel?




















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